Friends of the Forest volunteers and Forest Service employees cleaning up the Jim Thompson Trailhead in late October. Photo credits: Dale Smrz

For many of us, the first stop within the natural surroundings in the Sedona area is at a recreation trailhead within the Coconino National Forest. This is the place where outdoor adventure begins, and, in addition to providing a literal starting point, a visitor’s experience here can set the tone for the outing itself. Volunteers with the non-profit Friends of the Forest’s Trailhead Beautification Committee help the Forest Service to make that experience as awesome as possible, both from an aesthetic standpoint and concerning practical maintenance aspects.They clean up trailheads on a monthly basis throughout the year and work with the Forest Service on larger projects several times a year. 

Primary tasks accomplished by the volunteers include removing trash, and trimming brush, grass, and trees in and around the trailhead areas. Minor maintenance issues are also addressed, such as repairing damaged fencing and posts. Anyone who has driven into a trailhead that has trash around and looks run down knows what an uneasy feeling this can create. On the other hand, well-maintained trailheads demonstrate a sense of care and a welcoming attitude, and can encourage visitors and residents to treat both the natural environment and the trailhead’s infrastructure with respect. 

Not all trailheads in Sedona are the responsibility of the Forest Service, with some, especially in West Sedona, managed by the City of Sedona. The Friends of the Forest group has been designated by the Forest Service to clean up 18 trailheads in and around Sedona, West Sedona, the Village of Oak Creek, and Oak Creek Canyon. They may also clean up others not on their regular list.

These beautification efforts can be extended across all of us who visit a trailhead in the first place, before the volunteer crew even shows up. Here are some important things you can do, if you don’t already, to keep these areas clean:

• Place all trash in the waste containers located at most trailheads, often next to the restrooms. Some trailheads (Encinoso, Halfway, Call of the Canyon, Bootlegger, and Dry Creek) have small dumpsters.These can used for trash that a visitor has, but should not be used for any waste generated by a business.
• Pick up any pet waste and discard it in the pet waste container, if there is one at the trailhead. There is no poop-bag fairy, so it is up to all pet owners to pick up and discard waste generated by their pet. Please do not place trash in the pet waste containers as they are not big enough to hold all the trash generated at a trailhead. These containers are managed by the Oak Creek Watershed Council.
• If you smoke at a trailhead, make sure to thoroughly extinguish the device and discard the butt in an appropriate container. We are in a wildfire-prone area and improperly discarded smoking materials are a huge risk for starting a fire.
• If you’d like to help, you can pick up trash that you see at the trailhead, as long as you  feel comfortable doing this and aren’t putting yourself at risk. Alternatively you can report it to the Forest Service or email the Friends of the Forest at: thb@fofsedona.org. 

This is all in line with the fundamental tenets of leaving nothing behind and packing out whatever we bring along on our outdoor adventures, a great reminder also for any visitors you are hosting.  

In addition to the trash issues, one final consideration is to be respectful of others at the trailhead and to abide by parking-related signage, including parking in the appropriate area for your vehicle. Some trailheads have designated RV parking spots, which are not meant for use by visitors in regular vehicles. 

To learn more about becoming a a member of Friends of the Forest and volunteering with the Trailhead Beautification Committee, go to the Friends website: www.friendsoftheforestsedona.org. Enjoy all that nature has for us in Sedona and keep it beautiful!

Serving Sedona, written this week by Dale Smrz, Friends of the Forest, appears Wednesday in the Sedona Red Rock News. 

The post Keeping Forest Service Trailheads Clean and Welcoming appeared first on Friends of the Forest Sedona.

Trail ambassadors at a committee event.

From Aerie to Yucca, Bell Rock Loop to Bell Trail, and Dry Creek to Turkey Creek —  these are just a few of the trails within the vast expanse of Coconino National Forests’ Sedona-area trail system. And they represent one of the coolest volunteer gigs ever. Friends of the Forest, a nonprofit, nonpolitical organization that supports the Red Rock Ranger District, has a Trail Ambassador Committee focused on assisting the Forest Service by providing eyes and ears on the trails in the form of volunteer trail ambassadors. For the volunteers, one gets to enjoy taking a hike on a beautiful trail and give back to the trails at the same time.  

Once Trail Ambassadors’ boots hit the ground for a hike, they count the number of hikers, mountain bikers, and horseback riders seen. They also note any trail and signage issues requiring maintenance, and report graffiti. By recording the information using the Friends of the Forest’s mobile phone app or via forms on the website, the report can get to whomever it needs to in an efficient way. Then, for example, the Trail Maintenance or Graffiti committee can take charge and rectify the observed issue. The visitor use information provides helpful data for the Forest Service as they engage in recreation planning for different trail areas on the National Forest.  

In addition, while hiking the trails, volunteers act as goodwill ambassadors, interacting with visitors and providing information. Trail Ambassadors wear a Volunteer Forest Service patch and name tag, which help create a welcoming, approachable presence. Their day may also include picking up and packing out trash or articles left behind by visitors, and they often are prepared and can assist with emergencies, depending on the situation. 

There are almost 200 Trail Ambassadors; in asking a few to share what their favorite part is about this volunteer role, here is what they had to say: 

“I know I’m adding value to most hikers I see on the trails. Just the words –  ‘Hi, where are you headed?’ often finds either they are not sure or they don’t know the best destination on the trail or the distance. After that the conversation can move to preparedness, especially shoes and water.”

“I love it when tourists look at me, shake their heads slowly, and say, ‘You get to be here every day!’ as they look around them in awe at the natural beauty of our beloved Sedona trails.”

“My favorite part of being a Trail Ambassador is interacting with visitors from all over the world. Being able to provide information about our beautiful Red Rock region, trails and heritage sites brings me immense joy!”

“As a Trail Ambassador it is very rewarding to help keep our trails free of litter and report graffiti, signage and maintenance issues. But my favorite activity is meeting people from around the country and the world, assisting them with navigating our trails, answering their questions, and educating them about our beautiful Red Rock Country.”

“When I first visited Sedona, I fell in love with the trails and appreciated both their quantity and quality. Now that I am a resident, it is a privilege to help look after them — they are such a meaningful part of both visiting and living here.” 

The hardest thing about being a Trail Ambassador could very well be deciding which hike to do on a given day. Perhaps Little Horse, Chimney Rock, or Long Canyon, or maybe Baldwin Loop, or one of the myriad others? From the trails’ perspective, they all benefit from the eyes, ears, and stewardship activities of these volunteers. 

Interested in more information about being a Trail Ambassador with Friends of the Forest? Visit www.friendsoftheforestsedona.org.

Serving Sedona, written this week by Carol and Bob Dores, Friends of the Forest, appears Wednesday in the Sedona Red Rock News.

The post A Day in the Life of a Friends of the Forest Trail Ambassador appeared first on Friends of the Forest Sedona.

Friends of the Forest Volunteers Clean Grafitti

Please do not attempt to clean up graffiti yourself; it takes special training and tools. Also, the graffiti team uses a customized cell-phone app to identify sensitive areas so that the proper Forest Service employees are notified. This is very important, including because uninformed individuals trying to help have damaged archaeological sites on several occasions just over the last year. The adage “take nothing but pictures and leave nothing but footprints” has even stronger meaning when it comes to graffiti, the effects of which, sadly, cannot always be remedied. Readers are encouraged to report any graffiti occurrences to the Friends of the Forest. Simply email photos, descriptions, and location (including GPS coordinates if possible) to graffiti@fofsedona.org. Anyone interested in becoming a team member can join Friends of the Forest and express an interest in Graffiti Removal. Training and materials are provided by the Friends. See: www.friendsoftheforestsedona.org.

Serving Sedona, written this week by Jim White, Friends of the Forest, appears Wednesday in the Sedona Red Rock News.

The post Volunteers Respond to Graffiti Vandalism on Public Lands appeared first on Friends of the Forest Sedona.

Those activities are a small sampling of the breadth of work done by Friends of the Forest, a local nonpolitical nonprofit dedicated to maintaining, protecting, and restoring the scenic beauty of the Coconino National Forest in the Sedona area. Friends of the Forest volunteers partner with the Red Rock Ranger District by providing manpower to fill in gaps where needed. Last year, over 32,000 hours of volunteer talent were donated to the National Forest.

In becoming stewards, Friends of the Forest members are offered personal enrichment and public service opportunities based on their interest and time. The organization is always seeking new volunteers and will be holding an informational event on Thursday, September 19^th from 2pm – 4pm at the Red Rock Ranger Station. This will be a great opportunity to meet members, learn about the numerous volunteer opportunities, and enjoy light snacks while socializing.

The goals of Friends of the Forest are to:

• Help the Forest Service maintain its trails and cultural resources
• Reduce environmental damage caused by increasing human impact
• Assist with education and improve communication with the community
• Enhance the forest experience for visitors and residents

No prior experience is required. Training, tools, personal protective equipment, and volunteer attire is provided. Friends of the Forest has many Committees that members can get involved with, including:

Cultural Resources — Trained as docents, volunteers provide information to visitors about the ancient cultures that once lived or visited the Palatki Red Cliffs and Crane Petroglyph heritage sites. They also conduct site photography and recording.

 Fossil Creek Air Sampling — Volunteers assist the Forest Service with the replacement of air sampling filters, which monitor air quality as part of the implementation of the Federal Clean Air Act regulations. They use a Forest Service vehicle to drive to the remote site, replace filters, log data, and return the exposed filters for laboratory analysis.

 Graffiti Removal — This team works in conjunction with the Forest Service to remove graffiti (etching, stickers, paint) from the forest, while protecting critical archaeological sites.

 Interpretive & Education Programs — This group organizes classroom talks, demonstrations, and hikes for visitors to learn about heritage, geology, plants, and animals.

 Motorized Environmental Restoration — Volunteers work with the Forest Service and other volunteer organizations to restore, improve, and maintain roads and surrounding habitats in the Red Rock Ranger District.

 Preventative Search & Rescue — During summer months, volunteers share their knowledge and experience by informing hikers of what they are taking on, what they should have to be appropriately prepared, and offering them alternative destinations.

 River Ranger Support — The “River Rats” volunteers support the Forest Service rangers who patrol the federally protected portion of the Verde River between Camp Verde and Cave Springs.

 Trail Ambassador — These goodwill ambassadors hike Forest Service trails while wearing Forest Service volunteer identification. They answer hiker questions, promote the safe and ethical use of the forest, and pick up trash.

Trail Maintenance & Construction — The focus of these dedicated volunteers is to maintain and restore existing non-motorized trails. Sometimes, the Forest Service will request help with creating new trails and other trail-related special projects.

Trailhead Beautification — The first impression people have of a trail is the trailhead. Volunteers provide ongoing support at trailheads and parking lots, including picking up litter; clearing weeds, branches and brush; and repairing fencing.

Visitor Information Services — Stationed at the front desk of the Ranger Station and Visitor Center, these volunteers greet visitors and provide information about recreation opportunities on the Coconino National Forest around Sedona.

Water Sampling — Volunteers have been sampling Oak Creek’s water since 1999. Collections are made year-round at sites in Oak Creek and Fossil Creek.

Wildlife/Fish/Rare Plant Projects — These volunteers work on diverse projects coordinated by the district wildlife biologist such as conducting lichen and firefly inventories and retrofitting  range/cattle fencing to be more wildlife friendly.

Other Opportunities — Volunteers also handle all technology support (website, system administration, proprietary apps), membership, hospitality, and the newsletter.

Don’t miss the September 19^th new member event! For more information on the event and joining, visit www.friendsoftheforestsedona.org

Serving Sedona, written this week by Melissa Pontikes, Friends of the Forest, appears Wednesday in the Sedona Red Rock News.

The post Giving Back to Your Community appeared first on Friends of the Forest Sedona.

Sedona Fire Department. Copper Canyon Fire Department. Yavapai County Sheriff’s Office.
Verde Search and Rescue. We see and hear them in the news all too many times during summers
in Sedona, responding to heat-stress-related calls. These calls involve both visitors AND
Arizonans and sometimes turn out to be fatal.

Because many summer heat-related calls involve hikers, it is not surprising that efforts to
minimize such calls began with the National Park Service and the U.S. Forest Service in an
initiative called PSAR – Preventative Search and Rescue. These programs take a variety of
forms, but all focus on providing needed information to hikers to ensure they have a safe and
enjoyable experience. PSAR program elements include signage, face-to-face engagement, online
materials and hands-on aid (including water, ice and electrolytes). One of the earliest PSAR
programs was developed for climbers in Mount Denali National Park, and two of the largest
efforts in terms of government staff and volunteer time are at Grand Canyon and Yosemite
national parks.

Closer to home, the Red Rock Ranger District and Friends of the Forest Sedona initiated such a
program five years ago after local first responders were overwhelmed with multiple heat-related
calls to Bell Trail on Beaver Creek, which goes to a swimming hole called “The Crack.” The
focus, as with all PSAR efforts, is to provide needed information so hikers can have a safe and
enjoyable outdoor experience. Three years ago, the program was expanded to include Dry Creek
Vista parking – a popular entrance to the Devil’s Bridge Trail.

The Red Rock OHV Conservation Corp has joined Friends of the Forest volunteers at Dry Creek
Vista this year, patrolling from the parking lot to the Devil’s Bridge Trailhead on weekend
afternoons. From Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day weekend, on Saturdays, Sundays
and holidays, volunteers provide information about trail conditions and alternative destinations,
weather (including ground temperatures, which can reach 150+ degrees), and safe hiking
practices including early starts, adequate water (CDC recommends a minimum of 8 ounces every
15-20 minutes which means approximately 2 quarts for Devil’s Bridge and 1 gallon for The
Crack per person), sun protection and hiking essentials.

In addition, weather effects on canine companions should not be overlooked. Dogs do not wear
hiking shoes and ground temperatures of 120 degrees start to be painful and 130 degrees or more
will burn pads. Plus, dogs do not sweat (except paw pads) and are wearing the equivalent of a
winter fur coat, so they have an even harder time adapting to the heat than we do. Dog booties
help, but staying home should be considered on hotter days.

This year, through July 14th, PSAR volunteers have provided information to over 5,000 hikers
looking to go to Devil’s Bridge or The Crack. Over 700 of those hikers have taken that
information and altered their plans – opting for an alternate hike, shorter hike, doing it on a
different day or getting more water. Water and/or electrolytes have been provided to over 2,500
hikers, and aid in the form of chairs to rest, shade and cooling (cool water, wet towels) to 159
hikers in distress due to the heat.

Being aware of any heat stress you or your hiking partners might be experiencing is critical this
time of year, as the continuum from being uncomfortable to heat exhaustion to heat stroke can
have fatal outcomes. Heat exhaustion typically starts with a headache and light headedness.
Seek shade, take frequent sips of cool water and apply cool water compresses. Untreated,
exhaustion can progress to heat stroke with a rapid rise in body temperature to 106 degrees or
greater. The hiker can become confused with slurred speech with or without profuse sweating.
Call 911 immediately, seek shade, and offer cool water and cool compresses until help arrives.
Safer summer strolls are possible to enjoy in the Red Rocks. Start early, choose a hike
appropriate to your abilities and the weather, and be prepared with hiking essentials and more
water than you will need. And, if doing Devil’s Bridge or The Crack on a summer weekend, stop
by the Friends of the Forest PSAR tent and say hi. Better yet, start that hike really early and
finish BEFORE the tent is even set up. Safe hiking!

Want to know more about Friends of the Forest and Preventative Search and Rescue? Visit
www.friendsoftheforestsedona.org.

Serving Sedona, written this week by Dale Evans, Friends of the Forest, appears Wednesday in
the Sedona Red Rock News.

The post Safer Summer Strolls appeared first on Friends of the Forest Sedona.

Friends of the Forest 30th anniversary celebration at Chavez Crossing, with Aaron Mayville, Forest Supervisor, Coconino National Forest. Photo courtesy of Melissa Pontikes, Friends of the Forest.

​The U.S. Forest Service was founded in 1905, under the leadership of President Teddy Roosevelt. Its motto is “caring for the land and serving the people”. The Forest Service is mandated to balance five uses of national forest land: recreation, timber, range, wildlife and water.

The post Happy 30th Anniversary, Friends of the Forest! appeared first on Friends of the Forest Sedona.

The post Friends of the Forest Sedona’s 30th Anniversary appeared first on Friends of the Forest Sedona.

Crane Petroglyph Heritage Site petroglyphs. Photo courtesy of Jerry Walters.

Arizona Archaeology and Heritage Awareness Month and methods of Indigenous technologies was celebrated at the Beaver Creek Heritage Days at the Crane Petroglyph Heritage Site. The US Forest Service, Arizona Archaeology Society: Verde Valley Chapter, Verde Valley Archaeology Center & Museum, and Friends of the Forest worked together to bring back this Verde Valley tradition, returning for its first time since the Pandemic.

It was a fun and inclusive two-day event featuring engaging activities for adults, kids, and families! Attendees enjoyed rock art and blade demonstrations. Hands-on experiences included: prehistoric atlatl throwing, flint knapping, and tool technology. Attendees enjoyed prehistoric methods of cordage making, fire making, hunting technology, fiber spinning and textile weaving, creating split twig figurines. There was a special performance by the Warriorettes, a Yavapai-Apache Nation youth dance and drum group.

New insights were shared at the Crane petroglyph panel that features over 1,200 rock art images. The site is an advanced solar and lunar calendar and is the largest known petroglyph site in the Verde Valley. Information about 3D photo documentation of prehistoric sites, Ethnobotany of the region, a history of Homolovi, wilderness preservation, Native American Graves Repatriation and Protection Act (NAGPRA) compliance, American Indian Religious Freedom Act (AIRFA) compliance, traditional cultural property identification, Tribal cooperative agreements, and burial agreements with Arizona State Museum and appropriate Tribes were all shared.

Beaver Creek Heritage Days is approved by the Hopi Cultural Preservation Office and the Yavapai-Apache Nation. This event commemorated the renaming of V-V Ranch to The Crane Petroglyph Heritage Site. The Hopi Cultural Preservation Office, Yavapai-Apache Nation, and Forest Service were instrumental in adopting a new name that embraces Indigenous representation.

Honanki and Palatki Heritage Sites were the largest cliff dwellings of the Red Rock country between AD 1150 – 1350. The Sinagua, ancestors of the Hopi, lived here preparing meals, raising their families, and making tools from stone, leather, and wood. Nearby they hunted for deer and rabbit, tended various crops, and gathered edible wild plants.

There are three trails at the Palatki Heritage Site. One trail goes to the Sinagua cliff dwellings, one to a view of the dwellings which is wheelchair accessible and a third that goes to the alcoves that shelter the painted symbols, or pictographs, from every native culture to ever occupy the Verde Valley. Reservations are required to visit the Palatki Site.

There are 25,000 visitors at each site every year.  Due to issues with graffiti and ongoing threat of abuse, these sites are only open to the public on fixed days and hours.  Specific areas are viewable only if there is a docent present to monitor, interpret, and educate.

Long-time Friends of the Forest Docent Jim
Wilson educating visitors. Photo courtesy of Jerry Walters.

Friends of the Forest docent Cynthia Belowski shared, “I love interacting with people from all over the world and sharing the deep cultural history of the Verde Valley. In addition to sharing why these ancient treasures are important to protect for posterity, I hope our guests leave understanding their cultural significance to the native peoples of Arizona today.  It is very rewarding when you can tell — from a visitor’s thanks, questions and smiles — that you have raised someone’s awareness of our country’s rich cultural heritage.”

Docent volunteers are trained by Friends of the Forest and interact with the public at the Forest Service heritage sites.  The goal is to provide interpretation of the site for a greater visitor experience, education on site etiquette, and protect the site by monitoring for inappropriate behavior by visitors.

“Serving as a volunteer docent at this world-class petroglyph site is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Sharing insights into our area’s ancient culture with thousands of appreciative visitors from all over the world is a truly rewarding experience. Importantly, this role could not be possible without the tremendous support of the site hosts and the dedicated Friends of the Forest and Forest Service heritage site managers,” shared Jim White, Friends of the Forest volunteer.

Scheduling for docents is quite flexible and varies by individual. Many docents are part time residents who volunteer during the two to six months a year that they are in town.

David Kennedy said, “Being a volunteer docent at a heritage site has been far more rewarding than I ever expected. It’s a privilege to meet visitors from all over this country and other countries and help them understand about the Sinagua culture in the Verde Valley. The questions they come up with keep me on my toes. I’ve had to brush up on archeology, botany, geography, astronomy, photography and maybe others just to keep from getting caught flat-footed.”

Want more information about being a docent at one of the Heritage Sites? Visit www.friendsoftheforestsedona.org. Serving Sedona, written this week by Carol Dores, Friends of the Forest, appears Wednesday in the Sedona Red Rock News.

Crane Petroglyph Heritage Site petroglyphs and long-time Friends of the Forest Docent Jim Wilson educating visitors. Photos courtesy of Jerry Walters.

The post ​Learning about the History of Heritage Sites appeared first on Friends of the Forest Sedona.

Early stages of an agave roast. Photo courtesy of Scott Newth

Agaves have been an important plant for desert dwellers for thousands of years. In addition to being a dependable and nutritious food source, agaves are an excellent source of fiber for clothes, sandals, rope, and building materials. Agaves were a staple food source for many Native Americans. The importance of agaves to pre-historic and historic Native Americans can be summed up by: “Agaves were to inhabitants of the Southwest, what bison were to the Plains people.”

While agaves are a wonderful food source, they are toxic to humans in their raw form. Once harvested, the hearts and leaves need to be roasted for 2-3 days. Native Americans constructed stone-lined pits in the ground, in which they built large fires. After the pits’ coals and stones were hot for several hours, the prepared agave hearts and leaves were placed in the pit and then covered with soil and other vegetation, effectively steaming the agaves in the ground. Once cooked, agaves would be pounded into sheets and dried for later consumption. A roasted agave heart is quite sweet and tasty, even to modern tastes. The Yavapai have been known to provide it to their children as treats. A roasted agave has a shelf-life of several years; it therefore traveled and traded well, and was an ideal food source in lean times.

Globally, there are over 250 species of agaves with about 20 in Arizona. In the Verde Valley, the most common native agave is the Agave Parryi, which resembles a giant artichoke. Agaves are sometimes labeled “Century Plants”, because they are mistakenly thought to take up to 100 years to mature. Maturity is reached when an agave puts up a flowering stock, but the Agave Parryi achieve this in about 8 to 25 years, depending on soil conditions, light, and water. An agave has matured and ready for harvesting when it is about to put up its flowering stalk. This is when the heart is the sweetest and most palatable for human consumption.

Through chromosome analysis of agave flowers, botanists have determined that, in addition to harvesting wild agaves, ancient Native Americans cultivated agaves for sweetness, tenderness and time to maturity. To date, the botanists at the Desert Botanical Gardens in Phoenix have identified eight species of agave “domesticates” in Arizona with four of those in the Verde Valley.

Given modern botany research, it is believed that some domesticates may have originated in Mexico and were brought up to Arizona by Pre-Columbian Indigenous peoples. Unlike their wild agave Parryi cousins, domesticate agaves are scarce and are deemed a “Sensitive Species.” Because some domesticate agaves brought into Arizona originated in a different environment and climate, their seeds are not viable, so they reproduce asexually. This asexual reproduction via rhizomes has kept them from hybridizing with other wild agaves, and they are thus DNA clones of their predecessors.

Wendy Hodgson, a renowned researcher of agaves at the Desert Botanical Gardens, calls these domesticate agaves “living artifacts” as they are unchanged from what they were when originally introduced to Arizona hundreds of years ago. Through selection and cultivation, ancient peoples created agave species that are sweeter, less fibrous, and mature faster than their wild relatives. For hundreds of years, the Hopi people have recognized the importance of agaves, and one of their four main religious groups is called the Kwan (Agave) Society. Like corn, agaves are of cultural significance.

Distinguishing a domesticate agave from a wild species in the field can be challenging. Wendy has been teaching volunteers in the Friends of Forest how to identify domesticates in the field for ongoing research by the Coconino National Forest and Desert Botanical Gardens.

Want more information about volunteer opportunities with the Friends of the Forest? Visit www.friendsoftheforestsedona.org.

Serving Sedona, written this week by Scott Newth, Friends of the Forest, appears Wednesday in the Sedona Red Rock News..

The post Domesticate Agaves in the Verde Valley appeared first on Friends of the Forest Sedona.

Yavapai-Apache Exodus Monument, photo courtesy of Maurice Crandall, PhD

One of the greatest benefits of living in the Verde Valley is that it’s a place of intense beauty. Throughout my life, I have been overcome by the landscape and moved to tears. My grandfather, Ned Russell, served as Chairman of the Yavapai-Apache Nation and was a respected elder of our tribe. For several decades due to his work, he lived outside of Arizona. He related to me that when he finally moved back to the valley after retiring, he stopped at the scenic overlook south of Munds Park on I-17. When he looked out over the valley, with the Red Rocks and Oak Creek Canyon in the foreground and Mingus Mountain and Jerome at the far end, his childhood languages—Yavapai and Apache—came flooding back to him. I similarly lived on the East Coast for several years, making the annual drive back to my ancestral lands and stopping at the same scenic overlook, each time experiencing an almost instantaneous reconnection to my homelands. I share these experiences to illustrate the point that as the Indigenous peoples of the Verde Valley, our connection to the land goes beyond mere appreciation, even awe, for its beauty. Our language, culture, history, and very sense of being are connected to it. Speaking both as an historian and Yavapai-Apache, while I can understand the love and appreciation that my non-Indigenous neighbors have for this land, it can also be frustrating how little they know of our deep historical, cultural, and spiritual ties to this place. Even more frustrating, we often face barriers or inconveniences in our access to these places.

Put in the simplest of terms: we are the land, and the land is us. Cultural protocols allow me to share only general information about the stories connected to our sacred sites, but I can share a few general ideas, as well as some more recent history that will likely be new information to many readers. In our creation story, First Woman came out of the earth at the place now called Montezuma Well, and our people descended from her. We did not migrate from somewhere else, nor were placed here; we came from the land itself. Furthermore, after a major flood receded, she came to safely rest in what is today Boynton Canyon. Thus, we have been in the Verde Valley since time immemorial. Imagine my dismay at being severely scolded by a park ranger at the Well for going “off-trail” to make an offering to my ancestors. I was literally told I had no right to properly respect the place where life began for our people. Or consider how it feels knowing that Boynton Canyon, the place where our ancestors found safety and support in the beginning of time, is owned by a combination of national forest and private resort. These are our most sacred spaces, and while we are not barred from accessing them, we do not have exclusive control over them.

Similarly, there are constant reminders of our more recent history of violence and dispossession. The area around the Yavapai College Verde Valley Campus in Clarkdale is known as Haskell Springs. It rests in the foothills of Mingus Mountain and has beautiful views of the valley. What many don’t know is that the area was the headquarters of the Rio Verde Reserve, where Yavapai-Apaches were placed after being rounded up by the U.S. Army in the early 1870s. Or consider Indian Gardens in Oak Creek Canyon, named for the garden plots of our people that, upon our removal from the Verde Valley in 1875, were occupied by homesteaders who plucked the fruits and vegetables we had been growing before being out. Or consider the galling reminder every time we drive on General Crook Trail (Highway 260), named after the army officer who orchestrated the violent campaigns against our people, and then went back on his promise that we could remain on our original reservation in the Verde Valley, from which we were removed in 1875 and force-marched to San Carlos. Or the next time you drive on I-17 and pass signs for Skull Valley and Bloody Basin, know that those names refer to our skulls and our blood. In other words, please remember that the stunning beauty of this place has undercurrents perhaps few understand but are clear to Yavapai-Apaches.

I hope you’ll forgive my negative tone, but these are things that need to be said and understood. On a more positive note, the sacred stories of our ancestral sites are still alive. I have listened to them and recounted them. They bring me joy and remind me that I am the land, and the land is me. As of this writing the Yavapai-Apache Nation is involved in a land exchange that would add several thousand acres to our land base, which was completely taken from us in the 1870s, with only tiny bits later set aside for us since the early 1900s. This is what we need as Yavapai-Apaches; the land is us and we are the land.

Disclaimer: I speak only for myself as a citizen of the Yavapai-Apache Nation and as a historian, not in any official capacity as a representative of the Yavapai-Apache Nation.

Friends of the Forest contributes a monthly submission for Serving Sedona in the Sedona Red Rock News.. The month’s guest contributor is Maurice Crandall, PhD, Arizona State University.

The post Reading The Landscape and Its History from a Yavapai-Apache Perspective appeared first on Friends of the Forest Sedona.